1960s hat decorated with dyed pheasant feathers

1970s Givenchy evening ensemble with green and white ostrich feather sleeveless coat

The National Geographic Society has designated 2018 as “The Year of the Bird” in recognition of the 100th anniversary of the Migratory Bird Treat Act, the most powerful and important bird-protection law ever passed. So, we too are celebrating with artifacts that depict birds and/or feathers in some form. Bird feathers have been used for decoration in many cultures in addition to western fashion, sometimes almost leading to extinction. While feathers decorating women’s hats were partially to blame in the late 19th century, unregulated sport and market hunting and “boys’ mischief” were bigger factors.

Detail of embroidery depicting a crane on a Japanese wedding kimono c. 1980

Depictions of birds such as the phoenix, crane, and peacock in East Asian textiles hold symbolic meanings. The Phoenix represents the Empress and cranes often appear on wedding kimono as a symbol of faithfulness and longevity. Use of peacock feathers are also considered taboo on the theatrical stage.

Visit the Thompson Library Special Collections Display Cases for additional artifacts celebrating The Bird!

Sport or Gym Costume c. 1890

“Sportswear” at the end of the nineteenth century was a term applied only to clothing designed for athletic purposes, the playing of sports popular at the time including tennis, golf, bicycling, bathing (what we now call swimming), ice-skating, yachting, and hunting.

Later, in the early twentieth century, it became associated with spectators at sports events and then expanded to include simple, tailored clothing which preserved the informal qualities of athletic attire.

Post WWII, sportswear became synonymous with casual wear worn at any time of the day, and is considered a uniquely American contribution to the fashion industry.

Young man’s bicycling costume c. 1900
The Ohio State University
Photos by Kevin Fitzsimons

This exhibition, primarily of clothing from the late 19^th century through the 21^st century, explores the intersection of sports and fashion and how each influenced the other over the past 150 years. Full skirted bathing costumes and gym suits of the late 19^th century reflect the fashion of their time, but evolved into more streamlined functional forms as women became more active in the early 20^th century and beyond. When evening gowns of the 1930s had low back necklines, swimsuits had to follow suit, or was it the other way around? Was it the low-back swimsuits that influenced the low-back evening dresses?

Opening September 20, 2018