The Unsuit, 1980s

While swimming has been around in some form or another for centuries, it has only gained true recognition as an activity relatively recently. In the early 20th century, swimming gained notoriety as a legitimate pastime, and therefore designated clothes for such an activity needed to be created. Specialized clothing worn for swimming is relatively recent in the long history of people wearing clothes. The term swimsuit was formally coined in 1915, creating its own space in the fashion industry forever.

Fabric detail of a 1920s wool knit swimming costume

Swimwear, just like any other form of fashion, parallels the changing styles and trends of the times, including colors and silhouettes. For example, swimsuits for men and women were generally similar until the 1930s and 1940s, when styles for men shifted to 2 pieces outfits and finally into the concept of the swim trunks that is seen more popularly today. These suits also reveal the technological and design advances behind swimwear. This includes the advent of bra-sized swimwear for a more specialized fit, as well as a bathing suit which attempted to eradicate tan lines.

Paisley print and ruching detail from a 1950s swim suit

This small collection of swimwear acts as an extension of the “Sports & Fashion” exhibit exploring the overlaps in sportswear and fashion over the last few centuries. For a closer look at these swimsuits, visit the Thompson Library Special Collections Display Cases. This exhibit has been extended through July 7, 2019.

1960s hat decorated with dyed pheasant feathers

1970s Givenchy evening ensemble with green and white ostrich feather sleeveless coat

The National Geographic Society has designated 2018 as “The Year of the Bird” in recognition of the 100th anniversary of the Migratory Bird Treat Act, the most powerful and important bird-protection law ever passed. So, we too are celebrating with artifacts that depict birds and/or feathers in some form. Bird feathers have been used for decoration in many cultures in addition to western fashion, sometimes almost leading to extinction. While feathers decorating women’s hats were partially to blame in the late 19th century, unregulated sport and market hunting and “boys’ mischief” were bigger factors.

Detail of embroidery depicting a crane on a Japanese wedding kimono c. 1980

Depictions of birds such as the phoenix, crane, and peacock in East Asian textiles hold symbolic meanings. The Phoenix represents the Empress and cranes often appear on wedding kimono as a symbol of faithfulness and longevity. Use of peacock feathers are also considered taboo on the theatrical stage.

Visit the Thompson Library Special Collections Display Cases for additional artifacts celebrating The Bird!

January 26 – April 29, 2017

The Historic Costume & Textiles Collection celebrates the winter into spring months of Spring Semester with an exhibition of the garments that help keep us warm and dry. “All Wrapped Up,” is a history of fashion in the shape of capes, coats, and cloaks. Luxurious evening wraps share space with iconic trench coats and other functional and fun outer garments that are used for protective and decorative purposes alike. Examples of both men’s and women’s outerwear are featured. See exhibit installation images on our fashion2fiber website.