The Unsuit, 1980s

While swimming has been around in some form or another for centuries, it has only gained true recognition as an activity relatively recently. In the early 20th century, swimming gained notoriety as a legitimate pastime, and therefore designated clothes for such an activity needed to be created. Specialized clothing worn for swimming is relatively recent in the long history of people wearing clothes. The term swimsuit was formally coined in 1915, creating its own space in the fashion industry forever.

Fabric detail of a 1920s wool knit swimming costume

Swimwear, just like any other form of fashion, parallels the changing styles and trends of the times, including colors and silhouettes. For example, swimsuits for men and women were generally similar until the 1930s and 1940s, when styles for men shifted to 2 pieces outfits and finally into the concept of the swim trunks that is seen more popularly today. These suits also reveal the technological and design advances behind swimwear. This includes the advent of bra-sized swimwear for a more specialized fit, as well as a bathing suit which attempted to eradicate tan lines.

Paisley print and ruching detail from a 1950s swim suit

This small collection of swimwear acts as an extension of the “Sports & Fashion” exhibit exploring the overlaps in sportswear and fashion over the last few centuries. For a closer look at these swimsuits, visit the Thompson Library Special Collections Display Cases, from now through spring break.

Sport or Gym Costume c. 1890

“Sportswear” at the end of the nineteenth century was a term applied only to clothing designed for athletic purposes, the playing of sports popular at the time including tennis, golf, bicycling, bathing (what we now call swimming), ice-skating, yachting, and hunting.

Later, in the early twentieth century, it became associated with spectators at sports events and then expanded to include simple, tailored clothing which preserved the informal qualities of athletic attire.

Post WWII, sportswear became synonymous with casual wear worn at any time of the day, and is considered a uniquely American contribution to the fashion industry.

Young man’s bicycling costume c. 1900
The Ohio State University
Photos by Kevin Fitzsimons

This exhibition, primarily of clothing from the late 19^th century through the 21^st century, explores the intersection of sports and fashion and how each influenced the other over the past 150 years. Full skirted bathing costumes and gym suits of the late 19^th century reflect the fashion of their time, but evolved into more streamlined functional forms as women became more active in the early 20^th century and beyond. When evening gowns of the 1930s had low back necklines, swimsuits had to follow suit, or was it the other way around? Was it the low-back swimsuits that influenced the low-back evening dresses?

Opening September 20, 2018 – April 26, 2019