1960s hat decorated with dyed pheasant feathers

1970s Givenchy evening ensemble with green and white ostrich feather sleeveless coat

The National Geographic Society has designated 2018 as “The Year of the Bird” in recognition of the 100th anniversary of the Migratory Bird Treat Act, the most powerful and important bird-protection law ever passed. So, we too are celebrating with artifacts that depict birds and/or feathers in some form. Bird feathers have been used for decoration in many cultures in addition to western fashion, sometimes almost leading to extinction. While feathers decorating women’s hats were partially to blame in the late 19th century, unregulated sport and market hunting and “boys’ mischief” were bigger factors.

Detail of embroidery depicting a crane on a Japanese wedding kimono c. 1980

Depictions of birds such as the phoenix, crane, and peacock in East Asian textiles hold symbolic meanings. The Phoenix represents the Empress and cranes often appear on wedding kimono as a symbol of faithfulness and longevity. Use of peacock feathers are also considered taboo on the theatrical stage.

Visit the Thompson Library Special Collections Display Cases for additional artifacts celebrating The Bird!

January 26 – April 29, 2017

The Historic Costume & Textiles Collection celebrates the winter into spring months of Spring Semester with an exhibition of the garments that help keep us warm and dry. “All Wrapped Up,” is a history of fashion in the shape of capes, coats, and cloaks. Luxurious evening wraps share space with iconic trench coats and other functional and fun outer garments that are used for protective and decorative purposes alike. Examples of both men’s and women’s outerwear are featured. See exhibit installation images on our fashion2fiber website.

September 1, – December 10, 2016

Red and blue are the colors of our states during election season, so we’ve decided to explore those colors in our fall exhibition, Red or Blue? Join us this election season as we delve into the cultural meanings and psychology of the colors of the season, and view some of our best examples of red and blue gowns, suits and dresses from various decades of the twentieth century.

Blue satin Galanos 1986

Red chiffon Halston 1970s

The Historic Costume & Textiles Collection is featuring some of its best examples of red and blue in its latest exhibition. These colors first were used in television election coverage in 1976, although at that time, neither color was ‘assigned’ to one political party. In addition to political affiliations, cultural meanings of red and blue also have shifted over time, having different meanings in the past than they do today. We will look into these meanings as well as the natural dye sources for these colors. Approximately thirty garments will be on display in the upper Gladys Keller Snowden gallery in Campbell Hall, including designer evening gowns, daywear and suits. Related materials will be in the lower gallery.

View images from the exhibition

Check out the digital exhibition on Fashion2Fiber

September 17-December 12, 2015 and January 19-April 30, 2016

Geoffrey Beene, Bill Blass and Oscar de la Renta were some of the premiere designers of the latter part of the twentieth century. The Ohio State Historic Costume & Textiles Collection presents the exhibition, American Aesthetics, featuring the work of these three designers in an exhibit running September 17-December 12, 2015 and then re-opening January 19-April 30, 2016. These three men dominated the Coty American Fashion Critics’ Awards during the 1960s, 1970s, and 1980s, helping to create an American aesthetic in fashion design.

Geoffrey Beene was born in Haynesville, LA in 1927 and moved to New York City to study fashion at the Traphagen School of Fashion after dropping out of Tulane in 1946. His first collection was featured on the cover of Vogue in September of 1963. Beene won his first of eight Coty Fashion Critics’ Awards in 1964. He is considered one of fashion’s ultimate modernists. Beene initially received success for his popular unfitted sheath dress of the 1960s, but was later knows for his innovative minimalist design in body-revealing soft draping.

Bill Blass was born in 1922 in Fort Wayne, IN and attended the Parsons School of Design in 1939. After being drafted in the Army in World War II, he returned to the U.S. and began working for Maurice Rentner. Blass won the Coty Award in 1961 and 1963 while working for Rentner and later won again in 1970 under his own label. Blass also designed menswear starting in 1967 and won three Coty awards for his menswear as well. Blass is known for impeccable tailoring, luxurious fabrics and a sporty, sophisticated yet simple and classic aesthetic.

Oscar de la Renta was born in the Dominican Republic in 1932 and studied both there and in Madrid, Spain. He worked for Balenciaga in Madrid, followed by Lanvin/Castillo in Paris. Later in his career, he worked for (1993-2002) Balmain. De la Renta worked in New York for Elizabeth Arden for two years before working for Jane Derby. When she died in 1965, Oscar took over the label. He won the Coty Award in 1967, 1968 and 1973, and is known for a dramatic sense of color and embellishment.

Bill Blass and Oscar de la Renta were part of the “battle” between French and American designers featured in Deborah Riley Draper’s documentary, Versailles ’73: American Runway Revolution. We are having a screening of the film on March 19, 2016 at 2pm. Contact us for more information.

View images from this exhibition on our fashion2fiber website.