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THE TROUBLE WITH FASHION:
Getting
Dressed In The 1880s
Problems with fashion were evident throughout the nineteenth century. The
fashionable woman reshaped her body not with diet and exercise, but with many
layers of undergarments, a built-up structure that then supported and created
what became the correct and ideal silhouette for her gown. The process of
getting dressed of 1885 was a time consuming ritual. Women did not just jump out
of bed, throw on a bra, slip, panty hose, pumps and a comfortable knit dress
before dashing out the door.
When getting dressed the fashionable woman first
put on her stockings, which were gartered above the knee with elastic bands that
could reduce circulation of the legs. She might then put on her high cut button
shoes because, once the corset was on, it then became difficult to bend down to
button the shoes. The next two pieces were drawers and chemise. Drawers were
knee-length or longer cotton trousers that buttoned at the waist, often left
open for ease in elimination. Over the drawers she put on either a hip-length
knitted vest and a short petticoat or a chemise. The next essential garment was
the corset stiffened with thin strips of whale bone. If a woman tight laced she
risked squeezing her intestines and internal organs. Her breathing would be
restricted as well. Over this a woman put on a corset cover and then a bustle,
a contraption made of coils that was tied around the waist and hung in
back. Another petticoat would be worn over this.
Finally the fashionable woman
would put on her gown, which might consist of a boned bodice and stiffened skirt
to match. Strings or elastic might be attached inside the skirt to keep the back
fullness and the bustle in place. If it were cold, the fashionable woman might
wear a jacket decorated with jet beads, which could add as much as ten pounds to
her clothing. In all, her complete
outfit could weigh as much as 25 pounds.
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Patricia A. Cunningham, PhD
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