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Undergarments Including Bustle
c. 1884-1890

Reforming Fashion, 1850-1914

Politics, Health, and Art

April 13 - December 16, 2000

Strive as you will to elevate woman, 
nevertheless the disabilities and
degradation of her dress,
together with that large group of false views
of the uses of her being and 
of her relations to man, symbolized 
and perpetuated by her dress,
will make your striving vain.
-Gerritt Smith

INTRODUCTION

The Reforming Fashion  1850-1914 exhibition is about the women's dress reform movement of the late 19th and early 20th century. Fashionable dress in the 19th century went through several silhouette changes from tubular to hourglass and back to tubular. The fashion of the dress silhouette was not dependent on the natural human body but rather on a range of undergarments including chemise, petticoats, hoops, bustles, and corsets to create an artificial shape. A growing number of people including feminists, health advocates, physicians, artists, and educators began to believe that women's clothing, particularly fashionable dress, was harmful to women's health.

Solutions promoted by the dress reformers included trousers, reform underwear, and artistic dress. The reformers had a lasting impression on dress as trousers were adopted by sports enthusiasts and became part of the archetypal gymnasium suit worn at colleges and high schools. Reform styles eventually became fashionable dress as artistic reformers created more comfortable gowns with empire waists and soft drapable fabrics. 

- Patricia A. Cunningham, PhD


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